Dior’s Pre-Fall 2023 Show Celebrated Indian Craftsmanship in Mumbai

Cara Delevingne and Simone Ashley were in attendance for the Fall 2023 collection at the Gateway of India.

Dior Pre-Fall 2023

Dior’s pre-fall 2023 fashion show was held in Mumbai, India, showcasing a collection inspired by friendship and India itself. Against a surreally lavish backdrop of the Gateway of India – Mumbai’s colossal landmark that was built to commemorate the landing of King George V and Queen Mary on their visit in 1911 – strapless dresses in black, white, pink and hallucinogenic yellow brushed past a kaleidoscopic catwalk set embellished with thousands of marigolds. Meanwhile the most glamorous expression of the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, the illustrious Taj Palace, glittered across the road, where some guests could enjoy the show from the hotel’s balconies. Dior’s on-calendar show wasn’t just a special one-off exhibition, it offered a chance for creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri to “spotlight the collaboration and friendship” between herself and Karishma Swali, the artistic director of the Chanakya ateliers and the non-profit Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai.

His influences could be seen from the wide and striking range of colours, techniques, decorative shapes, motifs, and materials Chiuri chose for this collection. “It was through this relationship with Chanakya that I was able to learn so much about the artisanal embroidery techniques, which are still found in each and every Indian region, and the unique ability of the Chanakya Atelier to put them in dialogue with the fashion industry,” said Chiuri.

Cara Delevingne, Karlie Kloss & Christian Louboutin

Held in one of the most historic landmarks of Mumbai known as the Gateway of India, the show was just perfect and special! The latest Dior’s pre-fall 2023 collection was inspired by the traditional Indian garments. “This deeply personal tribute to the subcontinent’s culture focused a spotlight on the creative overlap between its wide-ranging mastery of textile crafts and the House’s perpetual devotion to savoir-faire excellence,” The Maison shared in its official account in social media.

Dior Pre-Fall 2023 Beauty Looks

Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to incorporate long silk skirts inspired by the sari, flowy trousers, and elegant evening wear as a tribute to India’s culture in terms of clothing, textures, colours, and silhouettes. Some of the designs include a captivating pattern, tie-dye, and a colour palette ranging from bright greens and yellows to deep pinks and purple tones. The relevance of embroidery, traditional Indian costumes, or abstract prints to matching pants, fluid silhouettes, tops or jackets, and pearls were some of the key trends. However, colour gained supreme prominence.

“In the House’s ateliers in Paris, the petites mains can be seen exercising their #DiorSavoirFaire in the construction of pieces ahead of the unveiling of #DiorFall23 by Maria Grazia Chiuri at the Mumbai show. From the execution of sari-inspired draping to the precise folds of a rani pink silk dress or the naturalistic imagery of a ‘Jardin Indien’ print top and a colourful patchwork skirt, the garments exude the energy of this creative fusion of France and India.” – From DIOR.

These colours were chosen as a tribute to French designer Marc Bohan who took Dior under the wing for nearly 30 years.  He marked a new era for Dior, specifically when dating back to April 1962, creative director Marc Bohan travelled to India (Mumbai and Delhi) to converse between France and India. This international connection he established also invited younger customers and a more modern design approach into the Maison.

Dior Pre-Fall 2023
Dior Pre-Fall 2023


Held by the historic Gateway of India, the event featured designs made in partnership with the Chanakya School of Craft, which has embroidered Dior pieces for 25 years. The show featured more than 800 guests, with a front row including Maisie Williams, Simone Ashley, Phakphum Romsaithong and Nattawin Wattanagitiphat.


Karlie Kloss

The supermodel chose a classic style for the event. Kloss wore a full Dior look, including an embroidered wool jacket with a silk shirt and a wool skirt, with heels and a Lady Dior bag — all in black. Kloss’ look for the event was from Dior’s cruise 2023 collection.


Sonam Kapoor Ahuja

For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2023 show in Kapoor’s hometown – staged en plein air at the city’s majestic Gateway of India monument – Kapoor selected a look that also featured on the Parisian brand’s runway, a fluid silk shirt and dhoti-style draped skirt in an iridescent dusty pink, layered with an easy jacket. “The pieces are imagined in silk reserved for weddings and formal occasions,” Kapoor says. She paired the look with strings of her mother’s Basra pearls (pearl chokers also featured on the catwalk, paired with vest tops and eveningwear) and a necklace from one of India’s oldest jewellery houses, the Jaipur-founded Gem Palace.