Nicolas Ghesquière chose the sun as the main protagonist of the show.
Nicolas Gesquière recently transported the fashion world to San Diego (California) where he brought his forward-looking vision to life through Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023. And that present future as he sees it is one that needs fighting for.
For this Cruise ’23, Nicolas G. chose the sun as the main protagonist of the show. “The sun is the guest of honour in the Cruise 2023 collection,” said Louis Vuitton’s show notes.
It played “an active role in the evolution of this wardrobe, where changes in temperature set a stylist tempo.”
Backed by the setting sun along La Jolla shore, 56 models walked the brutalist construction of the Salk Institute for Biological Studies, clad in Grecian goddess-like drapery and metallic textures that literally called to mind protective armor. “I’d seen pictures of the Salk, it was on the cover of the Louis Vuitton magazine in 2019, and I was always curious to see it for real,” Ghesquière said.
Architect Louis Khan placed the sun at the heart of the Salk Institute, a 1965 Brutalist building designed as a concrete monastery for enlightened souls. “I was curious about the architecture and environment. So I came down to San Diego a couple of years ago and I didn’t get a chance to see it, but I saw La Jolla and the beach and I enjoyed the atmosphere.” Nicolas said.
Moreover, Nicolas was also inspired by science fiction. He combined it with nods to sports and retro styles reminiscent of the ‘80s, looking all the way to a new millennium set in his own dystopic version of Dune.
The collection featured items that would have looked at home among the costumes in Denis Villeneuve’s Dune, including bomber jackets, metallic fabrics, cuts, and embellished garments, which were paired with natural materials such as linen, silk, and tweed. Juxtaposing materials were blended to create futuristic yet archaic silhouettes.
“I wanted the clothes to be like reflections, a point of contact between light and people” – Nicolas Ghesquière.
Louis Vuitton’s star-studded front row attracted several actresses including Gemma Chan, Emma Roberts, Samara Weaving, Chloë Grace Moretz, Bridgerton’s Phoebe Dynevor, Renate Reinsve, Ana de Armas, Deepika Padukone (Louis Vuitton’s first Indian brand ambassador) and Léa Seydoux, who will soon be heading to Cannes, where she will star in two new films. Leslie Mann attended with daughters Maude and Iris Apatow. Ava DuVernay, model Miranda Kerr, LACMA boss Michael Govan and wife Katherine Ross, Billie Lourd and husband Austen Rydell were also spotted.
We unpack the best bits and pieces of the collection. Let’s have a look!