The Milan Fashion Week has been hosting some of the fashion industry’s biggest names – Gucci, Versace, Fendi, Prada, Hugo Boss and Ferragamo – for decades.
Milan Fashion Week SS24 was a season of new beginnings. Sabato De Sarno showed his much-anticipated first collection for Gucci since being named creative director in January, while Peter Hawkings debuted his first collection for Tom Ford, after succeeding the eponymous designer as creative director in May.
On September 22, De Sarno showcased his first-ever collection for the prestigious Italian fashion house, bringing back the original minimalistic Gucci essence. “Peter Hawkings’ debut collection as creative director [of Tom Ford], having spent 25 years working with Mr Ford at Gucci, and then with him at his namesake brand, was sharp, slinky, and utterly glamorous. The tailoring was, as we would expect, expertly cut and sharp while the gowns were fluid and shown in a colour palette that was rich and decadent.” Not to be outdone, Versace hosted a co-ed show with Donatella Versace, curating stylish offerings for the next summer season featuring signature baroque and Medusa prints, sequins and patterned accessories.
Elsewhere, creative director Glenn Martens hosted an outdoor rave for the Diesel show on Wednesday night, which fell victim to a torrential downpour and spurred many attendees to share rain poncho-clad selfies from the site. Supermodels Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell walked for Versace and Dolce & Gabbana respectively, and Sunnei continued its show tradition of inviting audience participation by giving out numbered paddles for them to score each look sent down the catwalk.
Keep reading to discover the boldest collections spotted at Milan Fashion Week this year.
For Spring 2024, the collection by Prada started with a generous serving of the trademark Italian label’s captivating contrasts between soft and edgy elements. The collection featured narrowed, high-waisted shorts cinched with paper-bag belts, paired with matching jackets boasting voluminous sleeves and draped with silky scarves that resembled demi-capes. What followed was a mesmerising procession of sheer, ethereal pastel dresses, their appearance akin to liquid silk, evoking the delicate translucence of glass candy. As the models gracefully glided down the runway, the fabric billowed in the breeze, crafting a surreal and cinematic spectacle that proved elusive to capture in photographs. This Spring 2024 collection was an ode to movement, evident in every detail. Oversized sleeves played off against dainty leather belts, while wispy blouses created a striking contrast with chunky oxfords and floral shirts adorned with playful fringe details.
The day’s pièce de résistance arrived as Italian maestro Giorgio Armani unveiled his collection named ‘Vibes,’ donning a sleek satin jacket paired with matching satin grey trousers. This sophisticated pairing was a recurring theme throughout the collection, making its presence felt in cropped shirts, elegant jackets, diaphanous blouses, and even strapless dresses that gracefully layered over trousers.
Italian luxury fashion brand Fendi took the stage to unveil its Spring/Summer ’24 collection by Kim Jones. The collection explored a palette of neutral tones, featured daring cuts, and made a striking statement with its attention-grabbing accessories.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Milan Fashion Week revolved around Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana’s latest collection unveiled on Saturday. Their presentation delved meticulously into the world of corsetry and various forms of lingerie, celebrating the exquisite beauty and craftsmanship inherent in these intricate garments.
This season, the Max Mara Spring 2024 collection took inspiration from the British Women’s Land Army of the 1940s. Titled ‘An Army of Women’, the collection served as a heartfelt tribute to this bygone era, showcasing Max Mara’s interpretation of the iconic ‘land girl look.’ The runway featured an array of military-inspired rompers and utilitarian jackets, capturing the essence of the era’s fashion with a contemporary twist.
“Fresh and graphic. This is a Versace summer with colour and shine tailoring and soft draping. I love the contrast between boxy suits and the transparency of an evening dress; matte sorbet tweeds and shiny metal mesh. The craftsmanship lessons of the Atelier are applied to achieve something super refined. This collection is joyful and sharp. The Versace woman is free and vibrant. The Versace man is confident and daring.” Donatella Versace said about her latest Spring 2024 collection.
Italian designer Sabato De Sarno made his much-anticipated debut at Gucci, presenting his ‘Gucci Ancora’ collection that celebrated simplicity and exuberant party vibes. The collection offered a delightful array of uncomplicated silhouettes, setting the stage for a playful and festive atmosphere. The show commenced with a striking ensemble: a floor-length overcoat paired with a white tee and shorts, elegantly cinched together by a distinctive “GG” belt. As the collection unfolded, the collection featured hoodies adorned with prominent Gucci lettering, harmonising seamlessly with dark red leather bottoms. Leather jackets and pullovers sporting oversized collars and ornate details further enriched the visual tapestry.