Check out the Ludovic de Saint Sernin FW 2023.23 collection here.
French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin unveiled his latest Fall-Winter 2023.24 collection during the recently concluded Paris Fashion Week. The designer presented an autobiographical collection by portraying his namesake’s five-year rise from fresh face to fully-fledged creative director. For that, he started thinking creatively by taking into account the mid-2000s – the time when it all began as an early teen. He also remembered and took into account those years when he spent time watching FashionTV and dreaming of becoming a well-known fashion designer. “For me, this collection is a celebration of a dream come true. The 32-year-old me (is) realizing all the dreams that my 14, 15-year-old self was dreaming of accomplishing,” he says. “This whole show is as if I was doing a fashion show for the kid that I have inside me.”
“His appetite for televised fashion competitions – think Project Runway – served as a key impetus for the collection, with the frenzy of working between his eponymous house and his new Antwerp-based role, inspiring him to charge his team to design a series of thematised capsules – as if each were the week’s challenge in such a show. A homage to the fervent logomania of the era when Ludovic first fell for fashion, and a proud reminder of the brand’s established status, it signifies an expansion of the brand’s remit – a fact that’s expressly felt in the arrival of coats and cropped jackets in real, deep-pile shearling, a first for the brand.” – from Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
During the opening show, we could see black taffeta jumpsuits and office uniform style. Models wore micro-skirts, outwear, trousers with a leather charm, where the laces, strings and bolts, borrowed from women’s underwear. The label included its erotic side to the fullest. Models also wore underwear with crisscross laces, leather bralettes, transparent tunics, body-hugging knitwear and shimmering pieces.
“An opening suite of slim, tailored black silk taffeta looks – a high-collared sleeveless shirt; an amply cut trouser; a floor-skimming skirt – establishes common ground between the seething sensuality of LdSS and the brooding severity of the Belgian house he now sits at the helm of. The former tone is further developed in a trio of nightshade stretch leather ensembles that include the debut of a flounced miniskirt and the Cleavage dress – a dramatically abbreviated A-line silhouette featuring a signature laced front. Its bust motif is echoed on the Cleavage clutch, an evening-ready riff on last season’s popular shoulder bag. This sombre passage of the collection is rounded out by graphite denim shirting and the return of the front-box pleated Mirage skirt, as well as a figure-skimming overcoat trimmed with denim ‘fur’. A testament to the experimental flair of LdSS’s well-seasoned atelier, the shaggy fabric treatment – the result of a painstaking process of teasing out the fabric’s individual threads – reappears as a full pair of wide-legged Yeti pants that required a total of three weeks of handwork to create.” – from Ludovic de Saint Sernin.