Schiaparelli Brings Back Aliens To The Catwalk

For Daniel Roseberry, the future isn’t governed by development but forged by our connections to the past.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.

Paris hosted the Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture fashion show, which included a collection honouring Hollywood’s film heritage. Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry, created a runway show that was revolutionary in the realm of haute couture, fusing references to classic movies with his Texan background.

Roseberry began the presentation with a fanfare from 20th Century Fox to set the tone, and then he played clips from “Top Gun,” “Alien,” and “Oppenheimer.” Roseberry’s love of films was reflected in the immersive experience this cinematic symphony produced. The exhibition also reflected the recent trend of American designers influencing high-end French luxury labels, such as Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton.

The collection took its cues from creator Elsa Schiaparelli’s love of strange unions, as shown by the surreal silhouettes of the first black ensembles. The glossy black vinyl jackets with their puffed sleeves and cropped black trousers with silver buckles that evoked cowboys combined aspects of ‘Matrix’ and ‘Westworld’. Roseberry included throwback items from before 2007, including CDs and flip phones, to evoke nostalgia while also addressing how technology has evolved.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.

Elsa herself was deeply intrigued by space and astrology, and this collection serves as a homage to her obsession as well as an exploration of contradictions. Creative director Daniel Roseberry explains that the collection celebrates the amalgamation of heritage and the avant-garde, beauty and provocation, and the earthly and the celestial. It is a testament to how seemingly opposite ideas can merge to create unexpected and captivating creations, much like the chimaeras of art and nature.

Commencing with an avant-garde black PVC-style gown inspired by a dominatrix, complemented by an Elizabethan choker, the presentation showcased a captivating exploration of historical contrasts. This contemporary reinterpretation of the choker, fusing the opulence of bygone eras with elements of BDSM aesthetics, revealed Roseberry’s adept talent in seamlessly intertwining art and high fashion with a playful touch.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.
Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.

A particularly noteworthy garment, a 17th-century black cape adorned with rope details, mirrored the provocative elements of BDSM subculture, juxtaposed against a bedazzled neck clasp. Beyond its alluring exterior, the ensemble emphasised Schiaparelli’s dedication to meticulous craftsmanship.

Roseberry’s homage to the fashion house’s founder took centre stage in a pearl suit jacket ensemble featuring tubular, sculptural arms that redefined the conventional human form. Such pieces exemplified his surrealistic approach to classics, staying true to Elsa Schiaparelli’s original visionary style.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.

The pinnacle of the show manifested in a dramatic black sheer lace top, resembling an insect’s wings with intricate vein-like details, capturing the essence of the house’s surrealist origins.

The collection seamlessly blended Schiaparelli’s glamorous playfulness and exaggerated silhouettes, offering a reimagination tailored for the contemporary age.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 collection transcended the realm of mere couture; after navigating creative explorations in past seasons, the brand, under Roseberry’s direction, consistently challenges audiences with its glamorous frivolity and innovative designs.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection.

The “Schiaparelli” collection showcases an array of haute couture looks that juxtapose traditional techniques with modern elements. Traditional fabrics such as guipure lace, velvet, and fringe are combined with ultra-technological materials like microchips, calculators, and electronic devices. Roseberry’s iconography is also infused into the designs, including abstract references to his home state of Texas, such as hand-painted sequined bandanas and thigh-high fantasy cowboy boots adorned with buckles.

The show was attended by several notable guests, including Jennifer Lopez and Hunter Schafer. Bella Thorne was seen wearing a fitted black satin suit featuring large gold buttons, which commanded attention at the event. Thorne’s presence at the fashion show was notable, and she was captured on camera during the event.

Bella Thorne at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring 2024 show.

Daniel Roseberry once again showcased his unique approach to fashion, incorporating personal references and the heritage of the Maison into his designs. This singular perspective, infused with the fascination of haute couture being from another planet, sets Roseberry apart in the world of fashion.

The spring summer 2024 haute couture collection by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli is a testament to the enduring allure of the unknown. It urges us to look beyond the ordinary and embrace the extraordinary, both in fashion and in life. By bridging the gap between the earthly and the celestial, Roseberry invites us to explore uncharted territories and discover the limitless possibilities that lie beyond our world.