With The Call of the Void, its Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection, Schiaparelli once again demonstrated its unique ability to position couture at the intersection of fashion, art, and imagination.
Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, the house presented a collection that embraced uncertainty, intuition, and the creative freedom found beyond established conventions.
The collection arrived in the wake of the success of Roseberry’s previous couture outing, The Agony and the Ecstasy. Reflecting on that achievement, the designer admitted he initially believed he had uncovered a formula for creating successful collections. However, his attempt to recreate that process ultimately revealed the opposite: creativity cannot be reduced to a method or pattern. Instead, it flourishes through experimentation, unpredictability, and the courage to move into unfamiliar territory.
This realization inspired The Call of the Void, named after the French expression l’appel du vide, which describes the inexplicable pull toward the unknown rather than away from it. The concept feels particularly appropriate for Schiaparelli, a house whose identity has always been shaped by surrealism, spontaneity, and an enduring fascination with the unexpected.
Roseberry translated this idea into a collection that challenged traditional notions of couture luxury. Rather than relying exclusively on classic materials such as silk, satin, and wool, Schiaparelli embraced silicone, latex, and heat-treated paint, elevating these unconventional materials through remarkable craftsmanship and sculptural construction.
Among the most memorable pieces was an astonishingly lifelike silicone corset rendered in a delicate milky blue hue and paired with a voluminous skirt adorned with hundreds of flowers crafted from stretched hosiery, pearls, and wire. Existing somewhere between garment and sculpture, the look embodied the surrealist sensibility that has long defined the maison.
Elsewhere throughout the collection, natural flowers, fish scales, and flowing latex embellishments appeared across silhouettes that seemed to belong to an imagined underwater universe. These unusual details introduced movement and a sense of metamorphosis, reinforcing the collection’s fascination with exploration and transformation.
The color palette drew inspiration from the sea and the natural world, combining lobster pink, vivid violet, luminous orange, and soft mint green with glossy black finishes and raw ecru tones. Gold, one of Schiaparelli’s most recognizable signatures, remained a defining element, appearing in sculptural embellishments that highlighted the house’s distinctive approach to ornamentation.
Roseberry also revisited several of Schiaparelli’s most iconic codes. The house’s signature jacket returned in new interpretations featuring elaborate embroidery and intricate detailing, transforming familiar tailoring into architectural statement pieces with dramatic impact.
Accessories continued the surrealist narrative that defined the collection. New versions of the Secret bag incorporated floral embroidery and crinoline-inspired structures, while the Bubble shoe received futuristic updates through silicone finishes. Jewelry inspired by seashells, octopus tentacles, and sea anemones further strengthened the collection’s dialogue between nature and fantasy.
More than simply a display of craftsmanship, The Call of the Void functions as a reflection on the nature of creativity itself. Roseberry explores the relationship between instinct and control, suggesting that innovation often emerges when certainty is abandoned in favor of curiosity and experimentation.
Perhaps the collection’s greatest achievement lies in its reconsideration of luxury. Silicone and latex are presented not as provocative novelties, but as sophisticated materials capable of expressing artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation in entirely new ways.
Some of the looks may feel closer to contemporary sculpture than traditional fashion, yet this tension has always been fundamental to Schiaparelli’s identity. The house has never sought to conform to expectations; instead, it has consistently challenged and expanded them.
With The Call of the Void, Daniel Roseberry delivers a collection that is both visually arresting and conceptually ambitious, reaffirming haute couture’s enduring ability to inspire, surprise, and redefine the limits of creative expression.
