For Schiaparelli’s SS24 show fashion and beauty literally overlapped.
Since Elsa Schiaparelli first appeared in the fashion world over a century ago, the maison has played an important role in bringing surrealism to life and surrealism to life. The house of Schiaparelli, now in the capable hands of Daniel Roseberry, is now one of the highlights of every fashion month calendar, with the American designer creating a punchy and whimsical identity for the brand’s ready-to-wear goods. Not only does Roseberry’s admiration for Schiaparelli shine with each collection, but his ability to carry her “madness” ahead has introduced a new generation of devotees to his predecessor’s legacy. And he continues this task with the same levity and expertise that we’ve come to anticipate with Spring/Summer 2024.
Shalom Harlow debuted in a structured blazer dress with measuring tape embroidery along one side of the neckline at the Hôtel de Boisgelin, an Italian consulate on Paris’s Rue de Varenne. The setting may have been an homage to the founder’s background, but even if it wasn’t, there was enough of Elsa in Roseberry’s wild ideas for the runway.
The collection featured bold and whimsical details, from measuring tape embroidery on a zip-front coat dress to spilled nail polish and leather cigarette motifs on tailored pieces. One standout element was the three-dimensional lobster placed provocatively on the front of an ivory skirt, a reference to Salvador Dalí’s iconic lobster-painted dress worn by the Duchess of Windsor.
Once renowned for its eccentric Salvador Dalí lobster dress, Schiaparelli now broadens its horizons, epitomising an amalgamation of Parisian elegance and American sportswear aesthetics. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection tells a narrative of liberation and creativity, seamlessly integrating ready-to-wear pieces while retaining an aura of enigmatic charm that will transport you into a world of boundless possibilities.
But Schiaparelli’s transformation is not whispered in hushed tones or displayed through subtle gestures. Instead, it boldly declares its expansion into streetwear, introducing sneakers that are works of art themselves – boasting golden toes that nod to the brand’s inherent opulence. This fusion of styles bridges the gap between casual and luxury, showcasing Creative Director Daniel Roseberry’s dexterity in intertwining two distinct worlds.
Daniel Roseberry effortlessly fuses the casual American sportswear aesthetic and the precision of Parisian chic. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection becomes an emblem of freedom, a departure from the rigidity of previous couture pieces. With a breadth of movement and outfits that sing ballads of youth and liberation, Roseberry infuses energy and expression into every stitch.
On the runway, an eclectic mix of garments steals the show – from a powder blue suit with a draped sarong skirt to a cream halter neck dress adorned with incredible embroidery. The iconic Schiaparelli lobster makes its resurrection like a symbol of the house’s evolution rather than a mere echo of the past.
Roseberry’s artistry shines as he transforms everyday raw denim, inspired by his Carhartt work pants, into a spectacle when paired with a sandy tweed jacket laced with gilded trim. Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection exudes effortless ease, a departure from corseted rigidity, offering a refreshing glimpse.
Yet, amidst the casual, the house’s elegance remains unshaken. Dressier outfits like the black jacket worn pantless by Shalom Harlow or Kendall Jenner’s bustier dress adorned with red fake nails tell a tale of defiant sophistication. These outfits are not mere clothes but artistic narrations of Schiaparelli’s evolving yet unwavering identity.
Daniel Roseberry’s genius breathes life into Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy, embracing the madness and unpredictability that define art in its purest form. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection, adorned with spilt nail polish embroideries and the iconic lobster, is more than a display of garments. It’s a narrative of defiant elegance and transformation that will ignite your imagination.
To add to the excitement, Schiaparelli is venturing into a broader, more inclusive realm with the arrival of its eyewear line. While retaining its enigmatic allure, the house extends an invitation to experience its evolution firsthand, a voyage that promises to leave an indelible mark on the world of fashion.