A new creative vision takes shape as Demna presents his first runway show for the iconic Italian house.
One of the most anticipated moments of this season’s Milan Fashion Week arrived when Gucci presented its Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection. The show marked a significant turning point for the historic fashion house, as it was the first runway presentation led by its newly appointed creative director, Demna. Industry insiders, editors, and buyers gathered with great anticipation, aware that the show would signal the beginning of a fresh creative direction for the renowned Italian brand.
Founded in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, Gucci has built a legacy rooted in craftsmanship, innovation, and unmistakable luxury. For decades, the house has influenced global fashion through its distinctive aesthetic and strong brand identity. Yet in recent years, the company has faced new challenges as the luxury market evolved and consumer expectations shifted. To address this changing landscape, its parent group, Kering, has been working to reinvigorate the brand and restore its momentum.
Demna’s arrival as creative director immediately sparked conversation throughout the fashion world. The Georgian designer previously spent nearly a decade shaping the creative identity of Balenciaga, where he became known for his provocative ideas and unconventional approach to luxury fashion. His work frequently blended streetwear influences with high fashion, creating designs that resonated strongly with younger audiences and digital culture.
His debut collection for Gucci, titled “Gucci Primavera,” offered an early look at how he plans to reinterpret the house’s identity. The setting of the runway presentation itself reinforced this connection between heritage and modernity. Models walked down monumental marble steps surrounded by classical sculptures, creating a dramatic environment reminiscent of the historic Uffizi Gallery in Florence. The staging served as a visual reminder of the brand’s deep cultural roots while introducing a contemporary fashion narrative.
The show featured a total of 83 looks that blended both womenswear and menswear. The collection presented a wide range of styles and personalities, suggesting that Demna intends to explore multiple fashion identities within the Gucci universe. Rather than focusing on a single silhouette or theme, the designer introduced a diverse array of characters and aesthetic codes that may shape the brand’s direction in the seasons ahead.
Although Demna is widely associated with experimental fashion concepts, his vision for Gucci appears to lean toward a more emotional and refined aesthetic. In a message shared with the press and on social media, the designer explained that he hopes to bring a sense of softness and feeling into the brand’s creative language.
“I want Gucci to become lighter, softer, more refined and more emotional,” he wrote. “Sometimes it can even be irrational. I don’t want it to feel overly intellectual.”
That philosophy became clear in the womenswear portion of the runway presentation. Many looks focused on sleek silhouettes and sensual styling. Low-rise leggings designed as trousers appeared frequently, paired with fitted tops or sharply structured jackets. Short dresses and miniskirts added youthful energy to the collection, while stockings featuring the iconic double-G motif subtly reinforced the brand’s recognizable identity.
Outerwear contributed dramatic contrast to the slim silhouettes seen throughout the show. Faux-fur coats introduced volume and texture, while bomber jackets gave certain outfits a relaxed, rebellious edge. Stiletto heels completed many of the looks, emphasizing the glamorous mood that ran throughout the entire presentation.
Eveningwear played a particularly striking role in the latter half of the show. Several shimmering gowns appeared in metallic fabrics that captured the runway lights with every step. Their fluid shapes and elegant construction highlighted Gucci’s continued strength in creating statement pieces suited for high-profile events and red-carpet appearances.
The menswear designs carried a bold energy of their own. Male models walked the runway wearing body-hugging tops that emphasized sculpted physiques, often paired with biker jackets that added a rugged attitude. Oversized leather footwear in vivid red and white tones quickly became one of the most talked-about elements of the collection, introducing a slightly surreal detail often associated with Demna’s signature design language.
Accessories also played an important role in the presentation. Several models carried cross-body belt bags, one of Gucci’s most recognizable contemporary accessories. These pieces continue to appeal strongly to younger luxury consumers and remain a key component of the brand’s commercial success.
One of the most memorable moments of the show arrived during the finale. Supermodel Kate Moss closed the runway wearing a glittering black evening gown with an open back. As she walked, the design subtly revealed a thong featuring the golden double-G logo, a daring detail that quickly became one of the most widely discussed highlights of the evening.
Fashion insiders soon began drawing comparisons between Demna’s debut and the glamorous era led by Tom Ford during the 1990s. Ford famously revitalized Gucci during that decade with a seductive and polished aesthetic that transformed the brand’s global image.
Certain elements of that period appeared to echo throughout the new collection. Smoky eye makeup, glossy fabrics, and silk shirts recalled the sensual style that defined Gucci during the 1990s. For many longtime followers of the brand, these references may represent a strategic attempt to reconnect with one of its most celebrated creative chapters.
The collection arrives at an important moment for the luxury fashion industry. After a period of strong growth following the pandemic, the market has slowed as consumers become more selective in their spending. According to estimates from consulting firm Bain & Company, the luxury sector has lost tens of millions of customers since the end of the post-pandemic shopping surge.
In response, Kering has launched a broader strategy to revitalize Gucci’s global appeal. The company recently appointed Luca de Meo to help guide this transformation and strengthen the brand’s position in an increasingly competitive market.
Following the runway show, De Meo expressed confidence in the direction the brand is taking. He emphasized that Gucci is moving forward with renewed energy and creative momentum.
For Demna, the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 presentation represents the beginning of what could become a defining era for the fashion house. Some pieces from the collection are expected to appear in select boutiques and online stores ahead of the official launch scheduled for July 2026.
As the fashion industry continues to reflect on one of the season’s most talked-about shows, it is clear that Gucci has entered a new creative phase. Whether Demna’s vision ultimately restores the brand’s dominance remains to be seen, but his debut has already ensured that the world of fashion is watching closely.
