This season, Milan feels less like a routine fashion week and more like a pivotal chapter in style.
The city is buzzing with creative firsts, emotional goodbyes, and an energy that proves why Milan is a cornerstone of the global fashion scene. From Demna’s restrained debut at Gucci to Louise Trotter’s highly anticipated introduction at Bottega Veneta, Spring/Summer 2026 is already shaping up to be a memorable season.
The week kicked off on 23 September, when Demna chose an unconventional launch for Gucci: a short film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, The Tiger, in place of a traditional runway. The next day, Simone Bellotti presented his vision for Jil Sander, stepping in after Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade-long tenure. Later, Dario Vitale offered a daring debut for Versace, and most recently, Louise Trotter showcased her perspective for Bottega Veneta, marking her as one of the few female voices in the year’s wave of creative reshuffles.
This Fashion Week perfectly balances honoring the past with embracing the future. As Milan welcomes new creative leadership at its most iconic houses, it also prepares to pay tribute to Giorgio Armani’s incomparable legacy. S/S 2026 reinforces Milan’s dual role: custodian of tradition and engine of reinvention.
Amid all the excitement, there is a poignant note: Armani, who passed away earlier this month at 91, will be celebrated with a tribute show closing the week — a final homage to a designer who defined Italian fashion for generations.
Dolce & Gabbana
The Metropol Theatre turned into a spectacular pyjama-themed runway on Saturday. The cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and newcomer Simone Ashley — appeared in character in the front row, generating buzz and even drawing a rare smile from Anna Wintour.
On the runway, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana expanded the “Pyjama Boys” concept into womenswear. Striped sets were embellished with oversized crystals, while sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie-inspired silhouettes added a sensual touch. Footwear ranged from plush slippers to towering stilettos. Meryl Streep’s knowing smirk confirmed the collection’s theatricality and fidelity to the house’s DNA.
Versace
Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace transformed the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana into a scene resembling the aftermath of a lively night: unmade beds, scattered glasses, and ashtrays.
The collection mirrored this energy: plunging mini dresses, oversized tailoring in bold shades, baroque prints, and metallic chainmail-inspired pieces. Vitale avoided literal references to the archives, instead channeling Gianni Versace’s rebellious spirit. “It’s about the feeling of Gianni, not just the clothes,” he explained backstage. The show was both audacious and reverent — a confident step forward for the house.
Max Mara
Ian Griffiths drew inspiration from Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV’s witty and influential muse. The “Rococo Modern” S/S 2026 collection merged 18th-century opulence with Max Mara’s sleek practicality.
Trench coats featured dramatic “corona” sleeves, dresses were adorned with floating organza petals, and brocades were tempered by sharp tailoring. Hair tied back with black bands referenced Pompadour’s signature coiffure. The result was intelligent, wearable, and commanding — quintessential Max Mara.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s second season leading both men’s and womenswear radiated joy and energy. Against a backdrop of colorful blocks designed by Marc Newson, the collection evoked a “future summer” where nostalgia meets modern playfulness.
Key pieces included toggle-fastened pleated skirts, sheer sweatsuits trimmed with shearling, and oversized woven totes in vibrant colors. The iconic “Peekaboo” bag returned with a sparkling sequin-lined interior. The show was eclectic, fun, and luxurious — a reminder that Fendi can seamlessly blend whimsy with sophistication.
