Maria Grazia Chiuri has spent decades exploring femininity through fashion, examining the ways clothing can shape identity, confidence and the relationship between women and their bodies. At Fendi, that ongoing investigation takes a more sensual direction for Spring/Summer 2027, as the designer combines lingerie, transparency, body-conscious silhouettes and movement into a collection that celebrates physical expression.
Her latest Fendi show draws inspiration from an unmistakably Italian icon: Raffaella Carrà.
The legendary entertainer was celebrated for her work as a singer, dancer and television personality, as well as for a distinctive style that embraced glamour and movement. Her presence gives Chiuri’s collection an energetic Italian character while connecting it to a period when music, television, performance and fashion were deeply intertwined.
Carrà’s appearances on Milleluci, particularly her performances alongside Adriano Celentano, provided one of Chiuri’s key references. Their choreography was playful, physical and highly expressive, offering an idea of the body as something constantly moving and responding to another person.
That sense of physicality becomes one of the collection’s defining elements.
Carrà frequently appeared in fitted catsuits, mesh tops, flared trousers and sparkling bralettes, silhouettes that celebrated the figure while projecting confidence. Chiuri revisits those codes through a contemporary Fendi perspective, retaining their sensual energy while giving them a sharper, more sophisticated finish.
A black jersey catsuit captures the approach particularly well. Its fitted construction is interrupted by exposed shoulders, while silver grommet details add a modern edge. Rather than reproducing one of Carrà’s famous costumes, Chiuri takes the underlying attitude and transforms it into a look suited to a new generation.
The glamour of the 1970s also makes a strong appearance.
Elaborately embellished maxi dresses shimmer under the lights, bringing the drama of disco-era nightlife to the runway. Their sparkling surfaces recall the excess and excitement associated with legendary destinations such as Studio 54, adding a sense of celebration to the collection.
But the references to the past serve a larger purpose.
At the center of Chiuri’s vision is an examination of the body and the way fashion can reveal it.
Lingerie becomes particularly important. Pieces traditionally hidden beneath clothing are brought into full view, transforming underwear into an intentional part of the overall silhouette. Satin shorts trimmed with lace are paired with coordinating triangle bras in shades of teal, peach and black.
The effect is carefully constructed rather than accidental.
Lace becomes a visible decorative feature, while satin introduces softness and shine. Bras are no longer merely functional undergarments; they help shape the outfit itself. By bringing these intimate pieces outward, Chiuri challenges the conventional distinction between what is considered private and what is considered appropriate for public dressing.
Sheer fabrics continue that conversation.
Transparent chiffon allows the figure beneath to remain partially visible, creating a constant exchange between concealment and revelation. Deep necklines expose flashes of skin and lingerie, while fringed tunics move around the body and reveal glimpses of the silhouette as the wearer walks.
Thigh-high playsuits add another provocative element, using strategically placed cutouts to draw attention to the body’s natural lines.
Yet the collection’s sensuality is not presented simply for shock value.
Chiuri’s interest in underwear opens into a larger discussion about intimacy, femininity and the physical experience of wearing clothes. The body becomes something to be understood and experienced rather than merely displayed.
Literature offered another layer of inspiration.
E. E. Cummings’ I Like My Body When It Is With Your contributed to Chiuri’s thinking around physical closeness and emotional connection. The poem reinforces the idea that the body can represent much more than appearance, becoming a point of connection between individuals.
That concept is reflected in the collection’s constant movement between exposure and protection.
A transparent dress may reveal the figure while simultaneously placing a layer of fabric between the body and the viewer. A plunging neckline can be revealing while remaining highly structured. Lingerie may be openly displayed, yet its association with intimacy remains intact.
Chiuri builds much of the collection around these contradictions.
Strength exists alongside fragility. Openness is balanced by concealment. Structured silhouettes contrast with fluid fabrics. The body can be emphasized in one look and partially hidden in another, creating a wardrobe that refuses to settle into a single definition of sensuality.
The materials make those contrasts particularly clear.
Stretch jersey follows the body closely, while delicate lace and chiffon create softness. Elaborate embellishments introduce glamour, while transparent layers bring lightness. Fringe adds constant movement, ensuring that the clothes transform as the models walk.
Despite the collection’s revealing elements, Fendi’s luxury identity remains firmly intact.
Sophisticated fabrics, precise construction and intricate detailing give the designs a polished finish. The lingerie-inspired pieces are not treated as casual underwear but as carefully constructed components of a luxury wardrobe.
Carrà’s influence also gives the collection a strong cultural identity.
Her career represented an era of Italian entertainment in which performance and personal style were inseparable. She understood how clothing could amplify movement and personality, turning fashion into part of the spectacle.
Chiuri does not attempt to recreate that world exactly.
Instead, she extracts the qualities associated with Carrà—confidence, sensuality, glamour, energy and freedom—and reinterprets them through the Fendi woman of today.
The resulting collection feels connected to the past without becoming a period piece.
Sequined gowns meet lingerie-inspired separates. Sleek jersey sits alongside transparent chiffon. Body-hugging silhouettes are softened by lace, fringe and flowing layers. Across the runway, clothing is designed to respond to the wearer rather than simply sit on the body.
Movement becomes essential.
Chiuri treats the body as an active participant in the design process. Clothes stretch, shift, reveal and conceal as the wearer moves, making the relationship between garment and body central to the collection.
That relationship ultimately defines Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2027 vision.
Rather than simply celebrating sensual dressing, Chiuri examines what clothing can communicate about the person wearing it. The collection explores confidence, intimacy and self-expression while drawing on a distinctly Italian history of glamour.
With Raffaella Carrà as its guiding spirit, Fendi’s latest collection brings together disco-era references, contemporary craftsmanship and a renewed focus on the body.
The result is glamorous without feeling dated, revealing without sacrificing refinement, and sensual without losing its intellectual edge. For Spring 2027, Chiuri turns movement, femininity and physical expression into the language of Fendi.
